How To :

Engine Management Part 1

Welcome to the first part of "How To" Engine Management Part 1 where we will guide you through the process of fitting a crank trigger pulley and sensor.Task can be carried out on the bench or with engine still fitted to the vehicle All parts shown have been designed and manufacturer by VW Speed Shop.

 

 

We'll start with the engine without pulley or pulley tin

The machined ally seal holder

Push the holder into the case to hold it in position

 

Use the seal tool to pull the holder into position. You can use a bit of Loctite or flange sealer
behind the holder if your crankcase is worn

Same again for the oil seal itself

Complete oil seal assembly fitted

Now we fit the sensor bracket note the 2 washers that fit under the bracket.
These washers space the bracket away from the spotfacing on the crankcase to allow a firm seating

You may have to file or grind a small amount from this area marked with the blue cross all crankcases aren't the same

The braket may also need a slight touch with the grinder.The bracket shold fit onto the
crankcase studs without bending or forcing

Bracket in place and torqued to spec.No need to fit washers under the nuts use Lloctite

Here's where you have to trim the tin to allow the bracket through.If using new pulley tin then make sure the
the pulley tin fits in all other areas.This particular tin needed trimming all over the place before it would fit

You won't be able to get the tin screw in behind the bracket but if you trim the tin carefully the bracket
holds the tin in place tight upto the crankcase.Bracket could be modified to allow use of a M6 cap screw if required

The trigger hub precision machined from one piece.No tack on lazer cut wobble wheels here.This one is made from magnetic stainless steel there is a mild steel version available

The seal tool again flipped over to get a start pulling the hub square onto the crank.Make sure keyway is lined up
before applying force.Some crankshafts have different machine tolerances upto 0.003 inch so the hub maybe an easy
fit or a tight fit.Genuine VW cranks will be the tightest

Here's the tool flipped over again to pull further down.The idea is to get it on far enough so
you can use the proper bolt and washers to seat it fully.

A thick machined washer and a genuine Belleville spring washer are used to secure the hub along with a longer
high tensile bolt

High tensile bolt supplied with the kit

Here the sensor is screwed into the bracket.The wires are bonded into the sensor body so when winding it in
don't let the cable get twisted

Make sure the crank is pushed towards the flywheel to take up the endfloat
Insert a feeler gauge of 0.015 thou between sensor tip and hub and srew the sensor
down till it just touches.

Tighten the locknut gently no need for a big handful.Once you have the engine up and running and no further adjustments
need to be made you can apply some Loctite to the nut but preferably not the sensor

Sensor , bracket and hub fitted and ready for the pulley.
Sensor cable is fitted with a AMP weather seal connect which plugs into the main loom easily disconnected for
engine removal or just unbolt the bracket and sensor for engine strip down

There are 4 types of pulley available. Standard size "V" belt, Power size "V" belt, Serpentine style
BMD Standard size and Dry sump BMD style.Fitting is simple just turn the engine to TDC No 1
and bolt the pulley to the hub with the 6 cap head bolts supplied .The keyway on the crank will be at 9 o'clock when
the engine is at TDC . For racing purposes you can switch to a power size pulley without hving to remove the main pulley bolt and unlike other hub system pulleys our timing marks will line up correctly

Coming Soon

Part 2- Fitting the Ignition control box and wiring harness

Part 3- Setting up the ignition curve

Part 4- Adding the fuel injection

Part 5- Map making and dyno sessions

Part 6- Setting up the Innovate Motorsports wideband lambda for Autotuning and close loop mixture control

 


Contact Us